How to Make French Doors

It’s been a while so I thought I had better pull my finger out and post something.

Recently I was asked to install a pair of french doors for a family that I had done some work for a long time ago. They have since moved to a new house and had a list of things they wanted done to the place. So I made up a list and gave them a quote.  One of the items was these doors.  They were happy with the price and so asked me to go ahead. Only, when I returned to the joiner who had originally given me a price to make them, their turn around time was just too long – so I decided to make them myself.

Image

So off to the timber yard to choose some timber.  Firstly I had to trim it to the right width before running it through the thicknesser to achieve the right thickness, all in my professional backyard driveway workshop!

Image

A point to note when making doors is the way in which the grain of the timber runs, particularly in the stile’s (sides) of the door.  Timber will always move over time, with differences in temperature and moisture content, the direction the grain runs effects how the thing you are making does or doesn’t move.  So to minimise any warping in the doors over time the stile’s of doors are usually from quarter sawn timber.

.

I’ll use this for the stile, as its nice and straight and will probably stay that way

And these pieces can be for all the rails, as although they will be more likely to move, and if you look closely already have a bow across the length, the rails of the door will only be about 500mm long and wont be effected by a little movement.

The doors are going to be double glazed units, so I had to find a place that would make me some IGU’s (insulated glazing units) to put in the door, which wasn’t as easy as I thought it might be, but I found Dreamhaven Glass in Epping, www.dhg.com.au who seemed reasonable and quick.  As they are doors i ordered two sheets of toughened 4mm glass with a 6mm spacer.  They would take a week to arrive.

I set up my trusty home made bench router to take a 10 mm rebate out of the stiles and rails to allow for the double glazing to sit in.

So after cutting all the pieces roughly to length I mark up the timber for the joins.  I’m joining the rails and stiles using mortise and tenon joins, which is basically a peg in a hole.  It’s traditionally how doors are made, and provides a strong join. These doors will have what they call a blind tenon, meaning that the tenon doesn’t go all the way through the stile so can’t be seen from the other side.

So I mark out the tenon.

Traditionally this is then cut out using a nice sharp tenon saw by hand, which takes off the bulk of what is not wanted, and then neatened up with some nice sharp chisels.

But I haven’t got all week, and I do have one of these puppies. So I take off the bulk of the waste with the drop saw and neaten up the tenons with the table mounted router.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Until we have thisI did spend some time sharpening up some chisels, I do like sharp things. Besides, you still can’t do it without them.

The tenons are all done, now the mortise’s

After marking out the mortise, the bulk of the waste is removed using a drill with a spade bit, being careful not to go too deep and puncture though the other side of the stile.  You then get those lovely sharp chisels and neaten up the holes. This is the time consuming part. Joinery shops have specialist mortise presses that do this, they are a little on the expensive side, however my driveway is limited for space as it is.

And when its all done, after a bit of tweaking here and few choice words there…

Everything should fit nicely.

Just do this seven more times and you have the makings of a pair of double glazed french doors.

Once all the mortise and tenons were finished I glued the whole doors together using a polyurethane glue that is waterproof, and also expands like a foam. The idea behind this is to fill any space that is within the joint making it firmer and stronger.  I hadn’t used this glue before, but am reasonably confidant about it as it is still on my hands a week after I put it on the joins.

After the glue has cured overnight I take off the clamps and square off the corners of the glass rebate for the glass units to fit in.

After the glass units have arrived I sit them into the rebate, firstly to satisfy myself that I haven’t fucked up the order and they do fit and secondly to allow me to cut the glazing beads that I machined up from some of the off cuts from the making of the door.

Once I have everything ready, I remove the glass unit and place a bead of glazing silicon around the lip of the rebate.  The glass can then be put back in and the glazing beads attached.

With a bit of sanding, the doors are basically done.

These are the doors that are being replaced.

and my finger


Attach hinges to the new door.

Attach new door to old jamb

Slap up the other one, whack on a door knob and a lock and you’re done. ( of course this bit takes a little time, maybe a day, maybe longer if you buy the wrong bits and have to do a couple of rush trips to Schotts to exchange the wrongly purchased part only to get another… a lesson one should learn the first time, but never does)

Overall I think they turned out really well, and I really enjoyed making them, but if I was to look at the time it took me compared to the price that the joiners quoted, I would probably have been better off having them made – less fun though.

On to the next project

Sawhorse Carpentry Adrian Stewart poster

Our new poster

Kate made our new poster today. I’m going to make like Bill Posters tomorrow and stick it up around Northcote. It’s our way of trying and drum up more work locally. I’m happy to drive across town – don’t get me wrong, but close to home is nice. Also I’m hoping someone is going to commission me to make them a set of wooden handle bars – and mud guards while we’re at it.

Here’s the full text from the poster;

We love making stuff – on all scales. We can build you a raised garden bed – with a chicken coop to match. We’ll put in an attic ladder for you, or a new built-in made from recycled timber. We’ll make you a new retro camper or wooden handlebars for your fixie. We can do the fitout for your café, or just fix your creaky door. We can build your spanking new extension, while caring for the fabric of the old house. We can bring your plans to life in a brand new build.

We’ll source the best recycled and high performing materials and fittings for you. We are committed to making the passive energy performance of your project the best it can be. We always take the time to reuse or recycle what we can. We are inspired by good craft, beautiful design and smart technology. Like we said, we love making stuff, give us a call.

AdePoster_blog

On yer bike chippie

Carpenter on christiania bike

Fully loaded bike

My head gasket blew in the work ute last week, and I had to finish off a toilet/laundry reno I was working on in Reservoir (the family had moved out while I was doing the job, so no-one wanted any delays). I had some trouble organising to hire a ute – so I decided to use our Christiania bike to haul the gear.

So I left home in Northcote with a bike full of kids, materials and tools. I dropped of the kids in childcare in Thornbury, and then picked up two bags of brickies sand around the corner, before heading out the Reservoir. I reckon I was pretty close to the 100kg the bike is rated to carry.

I actually made the trip from Northcote to Reservoir in less time that it would take in traffic in the work ute. Maybe I’ve found a better carpentry transport system.

El Joyero easy DIY table with IKEA trestle legs

El Joyero cafe

El Joyero Cafe, Northcote

It’s interesting how often our clients look to the decor in their local cafe for ideas and inspiration for their own house. We thought it might be interesting to start to track some of the cool stuff in Melbourne cafes, especially fitouts that are easy to build and more or less DIYable.

We visited El Joyero Cafe around the corner from us in Thornbury on the weekend. Their fitout is a great example of what can be achieved on a shoestring budget with simple construction methods – which isn’t surprising because from what we hear the multi-talented owner/operators basically did the design and construction themselves.

The cafe is called El Joyero after the original jewellery store, and the owners have worked with the original 70′s shop fittings – to great affect. Cool, mix and match, sustainable nana chic.

The big trestle table down the middle of the cafe seats 10-12, and I reckon it would cost about $50-$70 in timber, another $50 for the IKEA trestles and take about half a day to put together (including sourcing materials) – free if you do it yourself, or about $200-$250 for a chippie. Even if you pay a carpenter to do the heavy work, that’s not expensive for a big table- of course you’d still have to wax or varnish it. The tabletop is basically a sheet of ply, trimmed with recycled timber, sitting on Vika Lilleby IKEA trestles.

The barista bench made from besa blocks looks great, as does the recycled weatherboard used as an interior finish. Not sure where you’d source the weatherboards from (apart from hanging around demo sites), but I generally ask Andy Mineur at Urban Salvage for help find anything like this – they’ve got a good range of really nice recycled timber, and they know where to look for stuff. Urban Salvage provided the recycled messmate for the Pint of Milk cafe fitout in Newport, which a friend has asked us to check out as inspiration for their new storage unit, maybe we’ll head down and take some photos this weekend. Looks like some nice workmanship, and beautiful timber.

Nice curves (plans & cutting the ply sides)

Gallery

This gallery contains 1 photo.

Teardrop trailer’s come in all shapes and sizes, but the basic design is pretty standard, it has a sleeping cabin (which has a double-queen bed, reclining room only), and a hatch which opens to access a kitchenette – and generally … Continue reading

Chassis (to fit a queen mattress)

Next step - the cabin!

I used recycled steel tube from an old display framework, and a standard chassis kit – and welded a frame large enough to hold a standard queen sized bed (Kate’s request), and with room for the kitchenette in the front.

We could have made a standard 4×6 trailer, but then we would have needed to make a custom mattress as well. The width of our chassis is the maximum allowed in Victoria without lights on the mud guards.

Our teardrop

Our latest project is a little teardrop trailer. A teardrop is like a cross between a midget caravan and a tent. It’s got room for a double bed in the cabin, and an outdoor kitchenette – and not a hell of a lot more.

Back in the 30s and 40s teardrops were a common DIY project, people bought kits and put them together in their backyards…we want to try and recapture a little of that DIY spirit.

I’m going to post our designs, plans and build pics here. Please feel free to comment or ask for more detail – especially if you’re doing your own teardrop build!

Excerpt from Popular Mechanics (1947): trailer_for_two